Finger Lakes Day 5

I woke up to the sound of raindrops beating down on the tent. Not terribly eager to get wet, I lingered in my sleeping bag longer than usual. By the time my bladder betrayed me, the rain had stopped. It was never more than a heavy drizzle, but it was enough to make the tents wet, which always results in a soggy experience breaking camp. I made egg sandwiches for breakfast and after we ate Kati and I packed up the car.

Before leaving Taughannock State Park, we hiked—no, we walked—the gorge trail. It was super short, only a mile and a half out to the waterfall and back. The ground was completely flat so I didn’t even bother changing into boots, sandals more than sufficed for the terrain. The waterfall was the same one we drove to the outlook to see two days ago. We just got to view it from a different perspective.

According to local legend, the Cayuga Tribe fought a battle against the Delaware Tribe. The Cayuga were victorious and slaughtered the Delaware chief, Taughannock, for whom the falls and state park are named.

During the Revolutionary War, the Cayuga Tribe sided with the British. They teamed up with Loyalists to destroy settlements in New York Pennsylvania. In response to the devastation, American General Sullivan and his troops burned native villages stretching between the Susquehanna River and the Genesee Valley.

We had a fabulous time at Buttermilk Falls State Park. It was definitely one of the highlights of this trip. We hiked the Rim Trail out, which had some serious elevation gain and it actually felt like a real hiking trail, although it was short. On the way back, we crossed over to the Gorge Trail which was reminiscent of the trail at Watkins Glen, but prettier. The creek carved through the rocks and you can see the layers and note where the water had its way with the stone. Even more impressive and pretty, the waterfalls have carved out deep holes in the rock-bed. Looking at the water, you see forest green pools interspersed among the muddy brown color of the rock beneath the water. The entire hike was just over a mile, but G3 asked if we could go back to the car, change into our swim trunks, and return to one of the pools. We were hot and sweating profusely so the idea of a swim was very appealing. Of course we said yes. The final stretch of the hike was a steep incline down stairs. It wasn’t strenuous at all, not until we turned around and had to walk back up.

By the time we returned to the swimming spot we were even more in need of a cool dip. And getting in the water was, by far, the best part of the day. We took turns standing beneath the waterfall which was very cold. We then slid down a natural water slide that had been carved and made slick by the constant flow of water over rock. Finally, and this was mine and G3’s favorite, the two of us jumped from the rock into the water. I am so glad G3 insisted going for a swim because I really enjoyed our time splashing around.

This afternoon, we mixed it up a bit. Instead of a winery, we hit a cidery. Ever since I went to England ten years ago, as part of the writing program I was in, I have liked cider. I tried it there for the first time because I do not like beer and when my friends were ordering pints, I inquired about non-beer options. The bartender was very happy to introduce me to hard cider. Never again did I feel left out when we went to a pub.

On the way to Buttermilk Falls, we passed a sign for the South Hill Cidery. After our swim, we stopped in. I had a flight which enabled me to sample four ciders and Kati had a glass of wine. The cider was good. Too often when I order American cider in a bottle, it is too sweet. I prefer it tart. The cider today did not disappoint, even the sample that was supposed to be sweet didn’t have too much sugar.

Sadly, our brief escape from New Jersey comes to an end today. Leaving the cidery, we turned the car toward home, but we diid take a detour to Elmira College which,

I learned today, is home to Mark Twain’s study. Yes, I am that much of a humanities nerd that I wanted to see where Twain drafted his novels, even though I have been to both his Connecticut and Missouri homes.

While en route to Europe and the Holy Land, Twain met a man named Charley Langdon. Through Langdon, he met his future wife—Charley’s sister—Olivia who was from Elmira. After getting married, Twain spent his summers in this part of New York. He wrote in a gazebo-styled room and it was there that he penned parts of his most well-known books: Tom Sawyer, Huck Finn, Life on the Mississippi, and A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court. G3 was not happy about the detour. He grumbled loudly about having to stop, but he did get out of the car to have a look.

The kits are happy we are home. Beanie hasn’t stopped sniffing and purring and being very cuddly. And Kramer didn’t take long to come out of hiding.