Day 6

My alarm sounded early this morning since we have a long drive ahead of us to Sault Ste. Marie and we want time to properly explore it this afternoon. Not knowing when we will next be able to shower, we showered before having another bland breakfast at the hotel.

In the States we have this perception of Canada that they are in some ways better off than we are. A socialist country takes better care of its people—or so the propaganda tells us. Maybe it’s true, but what I am seeing seems to contradict what I’ve heard. As we drive through Ontario, many of the small towns feel reminiscent of what G3 and drove through last summer in Kansas, Nebraska, Oklahoma, and Missouri. However, looking closely at the buildings—places of business and houses—they appear more worn, more in need of a facelift. Also, we’ve encountered more homeless—or people who appear homeless, than I am accustomed to seeing back home. Ever since Kati and I had to cross the border to get married, I’ve had this perception that Canada is more open-minded, more progressive, less in the clutches of Conservative Christian discrimination. As a result, am surprised by the number of roadside signs calling people to find their way to Christ. Are people in Canada as consumed by Conservative Christian beliefs? What influence does religion have on the politics of this nation? Unlike the States, Canada does not have an electoral college, or a Senate that results in unequal representation, which means one voice isn’t unfairly amplified over others, so it’s hard to compare both countries.

I was always under the impression that Canada treated its First Nations People better than we treated our Native Americans. Where that impression came from, I am not certain. But today, I’ve come to question the validity of that impression. Maybe Canada wasn’t as bad, but they certainly weren’t kind either. It’s more like degrees of cruelty. Like us, Canada did not honor all of their treaties with First Nation Tribes. They removed First Nation People from their lands and confined them to reserves—the equivalent of our reservations. Of course, Canada kept the best land for itself and gave the First Nation people land that was not valued as much. Canada also had residential schools for First Nation children where they wanted to kill the Indian in each child and “civilize them”. The last residential school closed in 1996, and recently, unmarked graves of children who died in the custody of the schools have been discovered. Some children were removed from their own families and placed with white families so they didn’t grow up learning their own culture. Christianity—predominantly the United Church and the Catholic Church—played a major role in these egregious acts. Canada is trying to come to terms with its past and recognize how they mistreated others. In the States, Republicans want to do away with cultural studies so that they can continue to deny the sins committed against anyone who was not of European descent.

I’ve wanted to visit Sault Ste. Marie since we first came to the Great Lakes four years ago. While here I wanted to go to the Shingwauk Residential School Center to learn more about the First Nation History. Unfortunately, we arrived on a Sunday and they are closed on the weekends. Needless to say, I was disappointed. Luckily though, the Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site was open. We got there around noon, having missed the eleven o’clock tour, but they were happy to give us our own private tour for the same price as the group tour.

The guide explained that all tours start with an acknowledgment of whose land they are on. They refer to the early white people as colonizers, and openly admit and discuss the evil and selfish acts committed against the First Nations. From the guide, we learned some indigenous history along with canal history.

The Batchawana First Nation (Anishinabek) people resided in Sault Ste. Marie long before the white people arrived. The area was called Baawaating—The Place of the Rapids. Indigenous people from North and South America went there to trade for whitefish, medicinal plants, and seeds. It was, in essence, the capital of the Great Lakes. Whitefish was vital to the people. It formed a large part of their economy which enabled them to maintain a permanent settlement for centuries.

In 1656, a fur trader from New France traveled to what is now Sault Ste. Marie. Soon other fur traders and missionaries followed. The indigenous people helped the new arrivals survive the harsh conditions, particularly in the winter. (Sound familiar?) The original treaty between the Batchawana First Nation and the colonizers stated that the two peoples would live in harmony with each other. The treaty was not honored indefinitely by the colonizers.

The reasons locks are necessary on the Canadian side of Sault Ste. Marie is because there is a seven meter height difference between Lake Superior and Lake Huron. Initially, it was the Americans who built locks for ships to pass through without having to portage around the rapids in the St. Mary’s River. However, the Americans didn’t always play nice. Although, in one instance you can’t blame them. In the mid-1800s, the Canadian ship Chicora was initially denied passage through the locks. The Americans remembered the ship because it broke through their blockade of the Confederacy during the Civil War. Why would the States aid a ship that had helped her enemy? Eventually, after negotiations, the Americans allowed the ship to pass, but the men and supplies had to find their own way around the St.Mary’s rapids.

After that, Canada decided it needed its own locks. To create their own passage from Huron to Superior, they cut a canal through St. Mary’s Island, thereby creating two islands. In doing so, they disregarded treaties with the Indigenous people. At the time, the lock system built in the canal was the longest in the world. They were also the first locks to use hydroelectricity. Now, the Canadian locks are only used for private boats. Relations between the US and Canada are friendly enough that Canadian ships no longer need to fear being denied entry.

Following the tour we took a short walk across the canal and across a short bridge onto to Whitefish Island to see the rapids on the St.Mary’s River. In the distance. we could also see the American locks. By the time we returned to the car we were all really hungry. A google search landed many options for lunch. We opted to go the Burger Don. It was a fabulous choice. Kati and G3 enjoyed their burger. I enjoyed my portobello mushroom burger and the salad I opted for instead of fries. I’ve really missed having a salad. I just don’t get the greens I love on the road. G3 upgraded to fried cheese curds which were really good.

We are camping in Pancake Bay Provincial Park. I wanted to stay here simply because of its name. Pancake Bay. I mean, how cool is that. And I don’t even like pancakes, but Dad did. He liked them a great deal. So why not stay at a place that would make me think of Dad. When we got here the first thing G3 and I did was change into our swim trunks so that we could head down to Lake Superior. I’m not sure who was more excited about diving back into Superior, me or G3. It was a little after six by the time we walked from our site to the beach. Without hesitation, we both jumped into the water, but OMG, the water was cold. Much colder than when we went swimming in Michigan. Since the water had a numbing effect on our limbs, we didn’t stay in long. We toweled off and then played catch with the football on the sand. It was a perfectly relaxing and fun evening. I enjoyed the time with G3, and he seemed happy too.

Back at the campsite, the three of us played Quiddler a card game that challenges players to out spell their opponents. It’s one of my favorite card games. We played until it got too dark to see which was around nine thirty. It’s one of the great things about being up north—the sun sets late.