Day 2

I woke up early. The cicadas had quieted down, although I could still faintly hear them. G3 got up shortly after me. I made coffee and hot chocolate. G3 sipped his in his hammock. I sat by the creek enjoying the quiet while I drank my coffee and read. Kati was exhausted from the long drive so I didn’t want to wake her. I asked G3 if he wanted to take a short hike with me. He said no. So I left him to work on a merit badge and I went hiking. I was disappointed in the trail. National parks usually do a better job of maintaining the trails but the trail leading out of the campground was overgrown. Still I enjoyed the solitude and listening to the creek as I walked. When I got back to the campsite Kati had just woken up.

We drove to Greenville, Tennessee to visit President Andrew Johnson’s house. Johnson was the first president—and when I was in school the only president—to have been impeached. The tour guide said that he was ranked by one historian as the second worst president. (Buchanan was ranked at the very bottom. Lincoln was ranked as the best president. Interestingly, the best is bookended by the two worst.) Johnson, however, inherited a difficult situation. He was tasked—in the wake of Lincoln’s death—with bringing the country together after the Civil War. And as a southerner, having to work with a predominately Republican Congress, he didn’t stand much chance of success.

From the very beginning, Johnson, despite being a southerner, strongly supported the Union. Even though he believed in slavery, he did not believe it was constitutional for states to secede. So while his native state followed South Carolina, he put Union loyalty above state loyalty. More importantly, he put his love of America and the Constitution before his party. He was such a staunch patriot that when he died he wanted his head to rest on the Constitution and he wanted his body wrapped in the American flag.

During the Civil War, Johnson’s house was taken over by Confederate troops. They were well aware of who lived there. His family had to be evacuated. Since the Confederates hated Johnson, they trashed his house while they lived there. One panel of graffiti has been preserved. It reads, “Andrew Johnson the traitor.” How hurtful that must have been to him.

G3 is happy he is not being homeschooled this year because if I were teaching him I would have him write a paper comparing Andrew Johnson to Liz Cheney. Both politicians put country before party and both were labeled traitors for doing so. It would make for an interesting assignment that would give both the historical and current events more relevance. Our country was divided in 1865. It is arguably as divided today as it was then. What can we learn from the past that might better prepare us for the present? I really would be a fabulous history teacher. If only someone would hire me.

After Johnson’s house, we detoured to Davis Crockett Birthplace State Park for a brief visit. Crockett is one historical person who always makes me think of Dad. When Dad was a kid, he loved watching the Davy Crockett show. The show was one of the highlights of his childhood. The song, however, got it wrong. Crockett was not born on a mountain top. He was born next to a riverbed. The original cabin he lives in no longer exists. What we saw was a replica. It was still cool to see, mostly because of Dad.

For dinner, we toasted hot dogs wrapped in crescent rolls over the fire. Giant pigs in a blanket. It was G3’s idea. Dad hated camping but he really liked pigs in a blanket. I think he would have approved, or at the very least chuckled.