Day 25

Last night, we didn’t get back to the campsite until 2:10 AM. I think we — Kati and I, G3 was sleeping — might have seen a mountain lion running beside the road on our drive. It definitely moved like a cat but looked too big to be a house cat. However, we were moving too quickly for me to have been able to scrutinize it closely, therefore, I can’t be sure. We definitely did hear coyotes while waiting for the astronomy program to begin. They were loud, and if I heard them while alone on the prairie it very well might have freaked me out.

I can’t sleep late in a tent or while away so despite getting in so late last night (or rather this morning) I was awake a 7. To prevent my restlessness from waking the family I put on my boots and went for a walk. I intended only to traverse the nature trail at the campground but soon my steps carried me over to the buttes and I hiked a short bit on one of the trails. I like the North Unit much more than the South. There are far fewer people and at that early hour I was entirely alone. I love the quite of the early hour. The only sound to be heard were the birds. There is a magic in the morning before most of the world wakes and I always feel it most strongly when I am away.

G3 wanted to hike to the prairie dog town this morning before we left. Yes, G3 asked me if we could hike. I don’t hear that request nearly enough so I was definitely not going to say no. Besides, the prairie dogs are incredibly adorable and I really am going to miss them so I too wanted to see them one more time and say goodbye before we left the prairie. When we started our hike it was still relatively cool at 74 degrees and when we arrived at the town the prairie dogs were all up and out of their burrows having breakfast. We actually heard them barking before we saw them. They must be quite used to people because they let us get super close.

While watching the prairie dogs, G3 stumbled upon a rattlesnake in it’s den. This time, I felt much braver — probably because it was curled up and sound asleep — so I did take a second to snap a photo before walking away.

Driving through North Dakota as a native New Yorker, I find the vast emptiness mind boggling. We drove for over an hour without passing another car. The grasses and cattle here should be very thankful that they have as much political clout in the Senate as humans back in New York.

I thought prices and the cost of living was supposed to be cheaper out west. I thought New Jersey was supposed to be one of the most expensive states to live in. So why then were the prices of Subway sandwiches in the middle Nowhere North Dakota much more expensive than anywhere else we have been? In fact, Subways in New Jersey are cheap by comparison.

We stopped into Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site. It is where the Hidatsa People lived. Until this trip, I had never heard of them, but I had heard of their most celebrated resident — Sacajawea. When we arrived, Kati asked if there were any Ranger talks or programs scheduled. There weren’t. However, they offered to do in impromptu one for us. We were excited. These historical visits are always more fun and meaningful when a ranger is involved. Other people were there and they too joined the Ranger tour of the Earthen Lodge. The ranger giving the tour was new but she was good. She brought us inside the lodge and explained how the Hidatsa lived and what they used things inside the lodge for. The talk was interesting and informative. But I have turned into my father. He always had lots of questions for tour guides and I often do too. In fact, Kati commented yesterday that she can tell how much I’m learning and how interested I am in a topic based on how many questions I ask. Today, my questions were endless — everyone else was long gone by the time we finished speaking with the ranger — and I was a little disappointed that the ranger didn’t have all the answers. But in fairness, I admit some of my questions were beyond the scope of that particular historic site. When I get home I will have to do some research, perhaps find a good book to read. (If you have read anything you found interesting on the Hidatsa people I do love recommendations.)

One of the best things about history, or even learning in general, is connecting the dots. Applying what you already know in order to understand something new. What I knew of tribes on the Great Plains was that they were all nomadic because they followed the bison herds. My knowledge was faulty. The Hidatsa — and the Mandan — lived in villages. They hunted bison like the Lakota, but they were also farmers, growing the three sisters — squash, beans, corn — plus a fourth sister, sunflowers which acted as a pollinator. Why did I never learn this in school?

I suspect three reasons play into the Hidatsa’s absence from textbooks: no gold was discovered on their land, there were no wars between them and the US government, and they were farmers — they didn’t need to be “civilized” as much as other tribes. Another Ranger speculated that they were allies in the US government’s war against the Lakota. Did they try to appease the government? Possibly. But like every tribe who fought to maintain their freedom and way of life they too ended up on a reservation. Their land was taken and they were forced upon a much smaller patch of land set aside by the American government. Maybe that’s why their story isn’t told. They were “peaceful,” they did everything they were asked to do, and still the United States stole from them. In some ways, that makes America look even worse. The Hidatsa gave the US no easy excuse for their deplorable behavior. History, as taught in public school, traditionally has elements of propaganda to make America and Americans sound wonderful. But we have our faults and history needs to acknowledge them — hence the need for critical race theory. I really need to teach history. I would be great at getting students to think critically about history and the way we view it.

G3 talked me into buying him another book. This one is about Native American star myths. This is why I am opposed to homework over the summer. I am even opposed to summer reading. If G3 had to do school work he wouldn’t want any part of reading or learning. With the summer free, he can pursue his own interests.

When G3 was about a year and a half old we spent the day hiking and swimming in Minnewaska State Park in New York. It was a long day and when we finally left the park Kati and I were in the mood for TCBY so we stopped for frozen yogurt. We planned to eat dinner when we got home, but G3 was exhausted from a day spent exploring the great outdoors. After a snack consisting of Smart Pop and frozen yogurt, G3 fell into a deep sleep. We knew waking him up when we got home would not be a good idea. Jokingly, Kati said, “Do you realize we just gave our kid ice cream and Smart Pop for dinner?” In response, I cried. And boy did I cry. What kind of mother gives their kid ice cream for dinner? My kid wasn’t even two and I was failing at parenthood. Kati was incredulous. Dumbfounded that I was actually crying about it. Well, obviously I got over it. Now, on occasion we have ice cream for dinner and it’s something that makes us all smile. Anyway, the TCBY place in New Paltz closed nearly a decade ago and I haven’t seen TCBY anywhere — until today. In Bismarck, North Dakota we found it and since G3 has heard that story so much I decided we needed to stop. Only it was a small treat — after dinner, not for dinner.